Friday, December 14, 2012

France part 12 - Notes about journey to France


Walks in the fall of France

Morning romance. Romance - this is because now it was time for the late fall, but this time, which attracts nature romantic, poetic and sentimental. This is truly human poet - well, the one that "our everything" - remember:

Days of late autumn generally reviled,
 But I like it sweet, dear reader,
 Krasoyu tihoyu, shining humbly.
 So unloved child in the family home
 To myself I shall. To tell you frankly,
 Of the year's time I'm glad it alone,
 There's a lot of good, lover not conceited,
 I found something in her dream wayward.
How to explain it? I like it
 How, you probably consumptive Maid
 At times like that. Condemned to death,
 Poor thing clone without a murmur, without anger.
 The smile on his lips uvyanuvshih visible;
 Grave abyss she does not hear the throat;
 Plays on his face still crimson.
 She is still alive today, gone tomorrow.

Well, "consumptive maiden" I have for this clip a word not found, but has her image - like, right? And further, remember:

Autumn Romance! eyes, a charm!
 Pleasant to me your farewell beauty -
 I love the lush nature of fading,
 In crimson and gold-clad forests,
 In their passage of wind noise and fresh breath,
 And wavy haze covered the heavens,
 And a rare ray of sunshine, and the first frost
 And the distant gray winter threats.

Stop, my friend, stop. Before frost yet - thank God - we in Mother Russia still is not reached, but our autumn was already chilly, damp rain replaces snow, and so want to return for a moment Babskii - oh sorry - Indian summer. With our program you do it at all easy. In old Europe, it - Indian Summer - still in full swing. So now we walk in the fall of France!

Romance - for me, but be warned that France - is a gourmet dish is from the category of fine dining. But I hope that even tasted a little piece of dish called "France", you will be tempted to eat this dish entirely. But that you were not sick of eating too much, start with a light snack - Normandy.

Our first stop will be in the suburbs of Paris, in the village of Giverny. If there is a desire to go on our trail on a trip to Normandy and Britain, I advise you to remember that name - Giverny. Or write in a notebook - Giverny. If you're only in Paris, and with limited funds, you do not necessarily expensive to book a transfer from Paris, enough to sit in a local train at Gare Saint-Lazare and for a penny in thirty minutes you will be in Giverny.

Giverny - a small picturesque village on the sloping bank of the Seine with a population of only five hundred forty people. Most of the people, why is fiery red, such as this one golden angels with flaming hair to match the local mountain ash. Giverny - is a place of worship, this is the mansion of Claude Monet.

Monet - this is a great impressionist painter, well, everybody knows it. But here did you know that Claude Monet was a true Frenchman? In the sense that he loved to eat, and most importantly - a lot. If on one average Frenchman has eaten a year: one hundred and ten kilograms of meat, twenty-five pounds of cheese, sixty-four pounds of bread, and eighty liters of wine, the great Claude Monet tried three times!

Monet was an exquisite gourmet, he was preparing a great cook by the name of Margaret, who was an artist in their field, so Monet always said that in his life and work was a period of "up to Margarita" and "after Margaret." Yes, the big man was Monet, and lived, in spite of his gluttony, eighty-six years - from 1840 to 1926. So that was the general rights of the film "Peculiarities of National Fishing", which said that "all diseases of the lack of culture," and so called cultureless man whose paintings exhibited in all the best museums of the world, it is impossible.

At Giverny, Monet lived for forty years until his death. He had two children and a philanthropist named Hoschede. I had a wife Alice patron, philanthropist, unlike a sponsor - it propertied man who donated generously and helps the artist so that he could perform his imperishable work. Monet was very responsive artist, and "gratitude" stole from his patron's wife. Well, that effort was Hoschede it and happy because with Alice Monet had to take care and six of her children, but that's my two other children. Well, that and think for a - you feed their eight children?

Claude and Alice lived happily ever after, and that's unusual for our time. The pride of the estate Monet - it's his garden, which he wrote in the comfort of home. For fat Monet was a godsend, because as he said his friend and drinking buddy Renoir: "Landscape painting - it is not art, and sports." He meant, they say, how much to pull prichindalov on itself, leaving the plenary. And then - threw himself out of the bedroom window, and draw on your health.

Giverny garden - it's a miracle, no matter where you come on view throughout the story finished composition. Unlike their counterparts Impressionists Monet is not lost in poverty. Wealthy Americans have done it - they were the first to buy his paintings, and the French have one distinctive feature: for all its snobbery, when they see that something invaluable to, starting to like Americans, they think. Zadornov certainly right - Americans are of course "stupid", but apparently this is really something.

The locals do not really disliked his neighbor - they did not know that today for his paintings at auctions give tens of millions for one job. However, Monet paintings on the cheap you can buy at the store for his estate. It is quite affordable price townsfolk. Of course this is a copy and posters, but well-executed, and somewhere in Oklahoma, calling the neighbors to a party so why not pass for "original."

Especially popular with American tourists are the handbags, painted - how they feel - the hand of the master. That's the nature of kudesnitsa and to exclaim: "People! Nature lovers - your mother! ", Be observant and then much of it appears from an unexpected quarter. And Britain and Normandy, in this sense - it is a storehouse of such miracles. Here, where no point the lens - certainly you will get to the finished composition. Nothing should be built - a composition in itself is picturesque.

However, to tell about a landscape, street or house, they are picturesque - it means to say the biggest commonplace than I often use. I have in fact that no neighborhood, certainly beautiful, and it is not only in my wretched dictionary as in the variety of really beautiful scenery in those places that I visit. And please, please focus on the country houses britontsev: they carefully preserve the ancient appearance of their homes!

In these old houses really were born and died many generations of their ancestors, and that I was still affected - is grooming rural homes even if they no not permanently live. Without fences and railings all these houses are literally buried in flowers. In my village Gadyukino if buried, the very different - it saddens and angers and laugh at the same time.

Even the cows are not like us. Britonskie bulls quiet and sad, Cows furry and funny - a special breed that gives incredibly tasty milk used to make the world-famous cheese. Get to know me, I hope that is not the smell, but in the face, I joyfully welcome cow cry: "Mu-we have our guy!" And I was like, 'Ooh, you're like "!

Well, my dear, we got to the menhirs. What such menhirs? Yes, that's such riddle. After all, they are not tombstones. Because of the lack of "Instructions for Use", which could, of course, to leave us with their creators, we - the scientists and researchers - gently manipulate multiple hypotheses. Theory, the author of which is I, ie and this is the only correct theory, it suggests that the attributes of the lunar cult, worshiped our ancient pagan ancestors.

That's my theory, but with what you will agree, is that the soul is not in Britain's cities, as if these cities were not attractive. The soul of Britain is in remote rural areas or in the fishing villages of the coast - it is here and has remained true spirit of Britain. Children brought up in Britain, grandparents, and parents are busy working. And this is - local souvenirs. Such products do not have anywhere else, but here they make and sell.

For generations of Rouen is forever associated with the famous cycle of paintings by Claude Monet, on the Rouen Cathedral and a sad symbol of the city - Joan of Arc, who was burned in the square. Here's something to these characters, with the first rays of dawn, I set off.

Morning streets of any city - even the most vicious - like children's parties, will open after sleep. These individuals are trusting, as the dog's eyes, they are full of the joy of life, and through the sleepy languor is waking up the energy and guile, and even waiting for a miracle - because as a child every morning, is a foretaste of the holiday from the opening of the world. Here, we - adults - and are different from the children.

In the morning to get to the Cathedral dedicated to Joan of Arc to pass through the market. This area is called - the Old Market Square. Apparently, the market has been here forever, and yet in our - Russian - look, this neighborhood is amazing. Indeed, part of the market is under the wing of a rather unusual cathedral, which resembles not a sailboat, not a strange spaceship. At this place May 30, 1431 Joan of Arc was burned. In memory of her indomitable will of the square stands a cross and built this modern church sailboat.

Joan of Arc to make money today is not only lazy, its image is represented in the gift presentation as far as the imagination, and imagination - as I have - enough to excess. For example, in a candy store with the name of "Tears of Joan of Arc" sold chocolate delicacies, and for an incredible price. To my amazement saleswoman innocently said, "Monsieur, is it tears of Joan of Arc is expensive."

Across the road is an American entrepreneur - that he is just a cigar, and the cigar again, so American - planned to open a barbecue eatery called "Joan", in memory of the burnt maiden. While he was given a waiver, forgive him for Jeanne "they know not what they do." The old town is built up by half-timbered houses. These homes are child-lined in striped, cross in the box. Direct oblique bars fixed to a wall stud, and the gap between the plank walls with clay or gravel.

In the city of Rouen, there is a "Manneken Pis", though what we are so proud of this, we have on the streets of the boys here - a lot. And piss on the streets, especially in the doorways strive. The pedestrian street of the large clock leading to the Cathedral often walked by Gustave Flaubert - he was born here, and this is where he often thought about how he better kill Madame Bovary.

In the courtyard of the Church of Saint-Maclou on its walls creepy bas - a memory of a time when the doomed were brought here, who died of the plague. Here they are in terrible suffering gave out his last breath. However, here we got to the Cathedral, which stands proudly clamp it in the ring, narrow medieval streets.

Construction of the cathedral began in the XII century and lasted for three hundred years, that for such a giant, in general, is not a term. The facade of the Cathedral significantly damaged by fire and by allied bombing during World War II. Allies with blunt bitterness turned Norman city in ashes. In a series of poems "Rwanda's Cathedral" at Voloshin has the following lines:

The sky in the feathers - and stands yasnitsya ...
 Pearl of the day ... Why me these things?
 And there is a cathedral - pervoprichastnitsa
 In white lace and muslin.
Goes off day. In the cathedral all faded.
 Smoky lilac and gray stone.
 And the flowers wither glass
 Deep in the Gothic caves.

Some guidebooks refer this to the early Gothic cathedral, the other - to the Late Gothic style, but what a difference to you and me? The main thing, in which many agree, the Cathedral where expressive of his namesake - Paris Notre Dame Cathedral.

These stones, stacked with efforts
 No earthly shackles and no limits!
 Suddenly frightened wings flap
 And vzovyutsya doves flock.

Street of the old clock on which very early in the morning we went to the Cathedral before noon gradually filled with tourists. Street more hours themselves rather large clock, this is the second after the Council of the card. I give this card to your memory!

I have here torturing poetry, history, pace name impressionists, and in fact most people are interested in something quite different, and that's the three I tell the audience: Yes, real estate in Normandy and in Britain is sold, and any. Can choose from. In every town there are now stands with photos of the home and the cost. Prices from 145,000 euros for such a small house and indefinitely. The average price of 200 to 500 thousand euros.

Locks are going wild for a mark of 2 million euros, and we spent the night in one of these locks here. I made friends with one of the owners, and the owner's mare in I frankly love unrequited love. Well, what of it? She has good taste. I guess that women whose soul dwells in the horse. Oh, how much in life tragic mismatches.
Today all parted for a week, in time to miss one for the friend. All happy and romantic yet! Your M. DC. Dmitry Krylov.

Ltd. "Travel Tips" on the order of "First Channel", Russia, 2008.

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