Monday, October 29, 2012

Italy Part 7 - Notes about journey to the City of Rome

Italy, the magnificent city of Rome. Not for nothing called Rome the "Eternal City" of Rome and still say that "all roads lead to Rome" ... But all this is a rather well-worn features of this Italian city - Rome. These phrases proverbial coincidence, because they were actually immutable truths. That's our very hurried walk to the wonderful Rome - a city-demigod will be no more than a cursory look at the most significant places of the Italian capital.

Although the city of Rome, perhaps more than any other city, calls for a deeper and more meaningful immersion, not a quick glimpse. After a walk through Rome - it is almost the same as the walk in Eternity ... Here you can see the legendary Colosseum, Forum and beautiful, and numerous Roman Square, and even the old fountain - all the sights of Rome immerse you deeply into the history and do a physical connection available time ... Ne'er-do notes with Dmitry Krylov.

Good morning. About this city to say with great aspiration. Once adopted, this will not be out of spite. Alas, the time that I, yes indeed, and you too, unfortunately spoiled. Here you open the old travel essays or book travel and see why they are choking in his own delight, describing them open panorama. Before them stretched Paris or Rome, Jerusalem, or the domes of Moscow, Pyramid or the skyscrapers of New York.

All right, so that they see our pilgrims travel thousands of miles of dangerous terrain and endless ocean. And what are we? Well, got into the airplane, promayalis few hours hateful chair, went through the glass, "gut" of the airport, took a taxi, and an hour later came down on the sidewalk in front of the hotel. That's all well and what a joy of discovery? What's to admire? I'm not talking about the viewers, have the remote in hand, right? Pressed the button and you are in that moment is, in Syktyvkar ...

Yes, civilization has taken away from us the joy of overcoming difficulties. No, I must get back to basics! We sit in the cart, or the cart home, navyuchivaem mules or who we've got? Sweetheart Themis for this role? And go to the capital of the world! Which one? Oh, for the title ever compete several cities, so that even if today it is the "Eternal City" ... The city of Rome.

On my trip to Rome was one day, and now have fifteen minutes to ... to what? Talk about Rome! But this is ridiculous, it is also possible, as in a few words to try to tell the story of the universe. Paradoxical, but very common situation - the comprehensive and largest city, where did you get, the harder it is to start talking about it.

Only to have to quickly scroll through all the chronicles of Rome, or just hold your finger on the spine of the "Eternal City" is not enough for several lives. This was written by Peter White, is to him - a brilliant writer - not enough lifetimes. And to us, to form? Easier. Therefore, being in Rome, I advise you immediately become a mere tourist gawkers "homo-turistikus", ie hang around, gawking at the sides, and constantly cluck, amazed by what he saw.

And do not argue with the conventional wisdom that "all roads lead to Rome" - the pathways to this city really is not that much. The first way, the traditional and the most banal and highly conditional on the result: you're coming for a couple of days in a tour group, and wholly given to the guide. If you are lucky, it will not be broadcast to the intonation, which speak to retard or severely ill, you are guaranteed to be noted on the main Roman attractions. Another thing is that all this historical patter immediately erased from the memory of you, and the resulting experience will be pretty dull.

You can go to Rome and the other, and, to my delight, I see more and more traveling this way. They go on a trip already prepared beforehand that we read, or taking with him guides and handbooks. They do not drive themselves, motayas of trips to tour, do not go big tourist herds, they have time to notice details, grasp the nuances, and I'm sure - they brought from Rome a very different experience.

There is a third way in the "Eternal City" - to me it was not available yet, but I have always envied those who were lucky enough to go it on her. I mean the opportunity to stay in Rome for a few days or more, and to see it with another, non-tourist, touch his present.

     I was in Rome. Was flooded with light. So
     Once the chip can dream!
     On my retina - a gold coin.
     Enough for the entire length of darkness.

The poet Joseph Brodsky. Unfamiliar, strange feeling pervades everywhere in Rome itself, felts you grow into history, she felts in you. Pages seem to be alive. No, not the school textbook, and the books of human history. Around here, in the ruins of the Forum, March 15, 44 BC in 17-47 was murdered Julius Caesar. He went to meet with senators, it was a time of troubles, the Republic is not yet dead, and the Empire was not born yet.

Caesar could become the first emperor of Rome, but not all in the Senate wanted to. As later finds imperial doctor, by the way, first made when the autopsy, not first a knife caused Caesar in the back, was fatal, and the next - in the heart, as he turned to face the murderer: "And you, Brutus, my son?" . These last words of the great commander known even to non-achiever, and did not have to "nightmare" Roman business - was justified then senator. Caesar's body was cremated in a huge white marble bowl here - Temples of the Forum.

This area, which is called "Piazza del Popolo", ie "People's Square" remembers another tragedy - it killed himself Emperor Nero, when he realized that rebelled against him and the Roman people, and his army. Much later, the townspeople were forced to build a church in this place, it was too fond it unclean Roman forces - all the surrounding witches held their sabbaths here. The church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. According to Piazza del Popolo in 1300 were thousands of pilgrims was the first time in St. Peter opened the gate to the "kingdom of heaven." Since then, the area and became known as the People's Square.

Colosseum or Flavian Amphitheater, through its openings - Sublime - skeleton, dazzling shine Roman sky. Once upon a time, caused by history teacher to the board, I mumbled something unintelligible about gladiatorial combat in ancient Rome. Now pictures of the school textbook written in the city alive. It is difficult to imagine the scale of the bloody action. After all, with countless gladiatorial fights, fights with wild animals, execution of sentences and executions of prisoners, as they say here in the Prosecutor's Office, execution of the first Christians - just outside the walls of the Coliseum killed 700,000 people!

Can all live, but to die - it is art. This was the main code of Gladiator. Even after being mortally wounded, he was smiling, and for mercy none of them asked - it was also the law. No less popular than the gladiator fights, the enlightened Roman public use and the death penalty. These were horrific performances. In order to save the content of wild animals for the imperial treasury radeyuschy Caligula ruled: Feed My pets condemned to death. And economically, and spectacular.

No less impressive, though not as blood, were held in the amphitheater sea battles and emotional showdown between Roman prostitutes. Yes, anything can see these ancient walls?
Wandering around Rome, soon begin to almost feel the connection to time, as your feet come to the same cobblestones pavement, which spanked sandals Roman emperors. And how many of them - have become history - then passed around?

August - the first emperor of Rome, he is asking his people to applaud when he will die. Since then, by the way, all those who died in Italy see off applause.

Tiberius - this is it, I will not believe in the miracle of the resurrection of Christ, said, "It is as impossible as it is impossible that these eggs were red." So after this Easter egg and turned red ...
Caligula - the most extravagant and vicious and unruly Emperor of Rome. Nero - most of all, appreciated luxury. Trajan - the most kind and generous Roman governor. Great traveler, Adrian, Marcus Aurelius, whose conquests rather strengthened the empire. Constantine - led Rome to Christianity. The list I have a very long so let us suppose.

Amazing coincidence - the last Roman Emperor Romulus named as the founder of Rome. Yes, that's a mystical circularity of time. The entire space of the city - these areas, temples, shell fountains, palaces - all covered with priceless antique patina, and again I quote, Weill: "Patina - the main Roman wealth, she monument that time puts himself. Rome was given a good grow old. " He does not need a "lift", and, in fact in the nature and amphitheater, with its bloody scene and Baths - these "spa" and "fitness" clubs antiquity - all these great long-standing evidence of the petty bourgeoisie, but only time turned them into historical monuments.

These ancient ruins - in the words of Joseph Brodsky's "edge of the world" - is nothing but a monumental improvement of everyday life. Because Rome, with all its greatness, is not a lifeless museum, it is a living city, populated by real people, which is the most common human life with all its natural manifestations, completely fits in this centuries-old Roman Monumental.

Why are there people? Cats and they did not show proper reverence to the ancient stones, live and multiply in the ruins of the Roman Forum. And it is the home of a cat is taken under the custody and care of the city - all 52 Murzik Murka and registered in the forum, take medical treatment and are fed with money from the city treasury and donations.

Rome is cinematic. Tell me, what memories arise from not too advanced a man standing at the Trevi Fountain? Well, of course, the scene from the film "La Dolce Vita" with Federico Fellini and Anita Ekberg with a luxurious, standing under streams of Fontana. And Fellini and Roberto Rossellini with his film "Rome, Open City" - they really opened Rome to world cinema.

It's the fifties, sixties of the last century, oh can not get used to this "last century." So, that's when Rome became known as "Hollywood on the Tiber." This race streamed movie stars and producers from around the world. What can you say? Real, real Rome better than any scenery, and it is not surprising that a generation of Romans fed that moonlighting extras. The desire to sit and play the Italians, and especially in the Roman, very natural, and the game is always serious, and the best scene for this - it is a street.

Just look at these dandies, carabinieri - and because they know the "channels" that are good, but what pictures and waste poses take as well? And of course, there's also going to the crowd.

Here Listen to this: all of these people came together from all over the world. Some people here has ambition, others - state affairs, third people - placed in them the embassy quarter of the people - a luxury. Fifths led here passion for education, six - the spectacle, the seventh - the friendship, and the eighth - enterprise. Some brought here selling their beauty, others - the corrupt eloquence. All the people are flocking to this city, where well-paid and virtues and vices. Surprisingly, these words are not spoken about Rome yesterday, and 2000 years ago, and my writing colleague and philosopher Seneca. It's a real - wisdom does not age.

And now from the eternal truths of the eternal city, get to the problem is not as eternal, but rather urgent. Rich Pinocchio - I'm telling you! Where to stay, since you go to Rome? I suggest you may be unexpected, but it is an alternative to popular accommodation in the hotel.

Usually because everyone wants to live in the center, close to the historical monuments, and I suggest the same hotel, located out of the city. The downside is that only one - in the schedule of the day should be the time to lay the road to the city, which is about half an hour. Everything on this end cons and pros is much greater. After an uneasy exhausting day in the city tours, downtrodden sweaty crowds same muzzy from the hot heat tourists still want to be in a cool and quiet, secluded with views of the local "pastoral" and "peyzanok," alas, staying here with their "peyzanami."

In this hotel a pleasure to spend a few hours midday, when the city is unbearable to move around, but in the joy of swimming and sunbathing in the cool waters of the pool. For final recovery and replenishment of depleted in his native homeland, forces exist hospitality "spa." By the way, remember that the "spa" - an invention of the Roman legionaries. When they were at the time of the campaigns found a place with hot springs, then immediately immersed in them their - Roman - organisms and settled there "spa", which means «sanus per aqua» or "health through water".

But the Roman legionaries and never dreamed of all the things that are capable of "spa" today. All kinds of massages, saunas trendy, where people act not only temperature but also beneficial color therapy. Oh, if only those ancient Romans, inventing their terms and taught humanity to bathe regularly, knew what kind of world they gave impetus to further invention of possible means of bliss.

Yes, Rome, of course, the "Eternal City", but our gear has to end today. Next Sunday we will go to hell, but the cart there is not exactly get there. And his mule - ladies - do not bother, do not get it. Well, good luck, bye. Your, oh, intriguing, eh? DK. Dmitry Krylov.

Ltd. "Travel Tips" on the order of "First Channel", Russia 2008.

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1 comment:

  1. Somehing that you shoudn't miss is even the Roman countryside lithe Villa S'Este in Tivoli with all its fountains.